Ruby Beach, Olympic National Park

Complementing last week's post about Ozette village, lets stay out on the coast for a bit.  Back in June the Forks Forum published a historic photo of Ruby Beach that dates, I think, to the 1930's.  Here it is:

Photograph of Ruby Beach, probably from the 1930's.  Unknown source, but published by the Forks Forum on their Facebook page on June 18.  

This photo really blew me away, as I had no idea that this site, which is now a very popular hike-in day use area along Olympic National Park's coastal strip, was used in this way.  The site is striking, in part because of the very prominent sea stacks and promontories visible in the background of this photo...which also make the modern perspective very easy to recreate.  A few weeks ago I did just that after a visit to Kalaloch to do some field data collection.  Here is the modern view:

Photograph of Ruby Beach, 26 June 2020.

If you look closely at these two photos you can also note some very minor, but obvious, landscape changes along the bank of Cedar Creek in the near field, and to the sea stacks in the far field.   Rocky stacks along Washington's coast seem permanent, but are continually changing and eroding...a process that we typically can't "see" unless we have the chance to view the changes over long time-spans, like the roughly 80-90 intervening years between these two photos.

Ozette...another (not) "lost" community

A few weeks ago I posted about Port Crescent, calling it a "Lost City".  There are a number of places along Washington's coast that people used to call home, but now don't.  Many of those places, like Port Crescent, were abandoned due to economic or demographic forces.  Some, like Ozette, were abandoned for different reasons: according to sources I've spoken to within the tribe, the residents of Ozette were more or less required to leave when their children were required to attend school, but no school was provided to the village.  People had to leave. But its definitely a misnomer to call Ozette "lost"...it is very much alive in the hearts of many and clearly not truly lost.

Ozette was one of the five main village sites of the Makah, and in the 1890's the site was heavily developed:

1890's photo of residences at Ozette.  Photo courtesy of the Burt Kellogg collection, hosted by the North Olympic Library.  

The site is now on a small sliver of the Makah Tribe's reservation, surrounded on all sides by the extraordinary wilderness coastal strip of Olympic National Park.  Here is today's view:

29 June 2020 photo of Ozette.  The building in the foreground is an abandoned National Park Service building.

Ediz Hook Part Four: The Light House

I think this will be the last one for a bit on Ediz Hook...time to move on to other large spits!  But for number 4 I wanted to stick with the old stately lighthouse that used to grace the end of Ediz Hook...an area that has now evolved into a sort of storage lot for the USCG base that now takes up the end of the Hook.  Here is an 1890 photo of one of the first Ediz Hook lighthouse (there was another built in the early 1900's):

Ediz Hook lighthouse, 1890.  Photo from the Bert Kellogg collection, hosted by the North Olympic Library System

So this photo is a bit hard to place exactly, given that you can't make out any landmarks in the photo.  However, if my placement of the fog bell that I covered in this previous blog is correct, then this is roughly the modern perspective of the 1890 shot above:

9 June 2020 photo of Ediz Hook.  Photo by Ian Miller

Again, impressive changes to this impressive place on Washington's shoreline.  BTW this original Ediz Hook lighthouse (or perhaps one of the later buildings?) apparently still exists as a house in Port Angeles.  One of my earliest Coastnerd Gazette entries attempted to tell the story...

Ediz Hook Part Three: The Fog Bell

I'm just going to continue on with a focus on changes to Ediz Hook, and notably the beautiful old lighthouse facility that used to sit on its tip.  Part 1 and Part 2 are here and here.  Below is a 1907 view of the fog bell that once sat on the end of Ediz Hook:

1907 photo of fog bell on the end of Ediz Hook.  Photo from the Burt Kellogg collection, hosted by the North Olympic Library System.

This view is notable for a variety of reasons.  One, it was shot in winter, and there is snow on the ground.  Second, it appears that this was a manual bell...so during foggy weather, or presumably any time visibility was impaired, the light-keeper had to be working that bell.  Pretty astonishing.

I could find no trace of this building...no foundation, no indentation in the grass.  However, based on the outline of the mountains that are visible behind the building its evident that this photos was taken from roughly here, looking towards the south.  Here is the modern view, as close as I felt I could match it:

Photo collected 9 June 2020, Ediz Hook, by Ian Miller

The site of this fog bell building is important, as it is the only thing that provides any reference for a few other photos of the lighthouse complex that sat on Ediz Hook.  A post to follow will focus on one of those photos.

Ediz Hook Part Two - From the Other End

Every year I try to make it out the the end of Ediz Hook to collect survey data to add to a multi-year monitoring study of beaches in Washington State.  Since the whole of the end of the Hook is part of a US Coast Guard base, its not just a simple matter of driving out there...it takes a bit of set up.  But its always fun and interesting.  My trip out there this year was last week, and I figured it also offered a stellar opportunity to provide some perspective on changes to the Hook to complement my earlier post on Ediz Hook.  Notably, the end of Ediz Hook used to host a lighthouse, built in 1865 and subsequently modified a few times.  For this post I want to focus on this photo, dated to the 1880's and presumably shot from the lighthouse tower, looking landward along the Hook:

Photo taken in the 1880's looking landward along Ediz Hook.  From the Burt Kellogg collection, hosted by the North Olympic Library System.  

There really isn't much trace of the lighthouse or its associated buildings out at the end of Ediz Hook anymore, but there are a few more modern storage buildings...and one of them has a flight of stairs that allowed me to get up pretty close to where this photo was shot ~140 years ago.  Here is what the view looks like now:

Photo by Ian Miller, collected 9 June 2020

Ediz Hook is so heavily modified...you have to really use your imagination to get a sense for what an amazing habitat it must have been.  I would love to be able to go back to when the 1880's photo above was shot and take a look around.

Washington Harbor - 600 Years of Activity

This Washington Harbor shoreline at the entrance to Sequim Bay is one of the most culturally significant and extensively researched historical locations in the Sequim-Dungeness area. The few acres of land shown here were home to a S’Klallam Tribal village for at least 600 years, a clam cannery for more than a half-century, and is now utilized for research in marine sciences.  

Then - Bugge Clam Cannery, approx. 1905-1910 
(Courtesy the Burt Kellogg Collection of the North Olympic Library System)  
Now - Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, May 2020

The historical photo is one of many taken of the Bugge Clam Cannery and available for viewing in the Burt Kellogg Collection of the North Olympic Library System. The cannery operated at Washington Harbor as early as the 1880s and a large Victorian home was built in 1889 (at far right). Sequim pioneer Hans J. Bugge is the most notable developer at the site.  Hans, and later his son Anphin, operated the cannery here for more than 60 years. The cannery had 30-40 employees and at its peak, shipping 10,000 cases of clams per year under the names Moon Kist and Tureen.

Bugge Clam Cannery at Washington Harbor,
with Bugge's Georgian-style home
Courtesy of the North Olympic History Center

The site also included a creamery (1905-1917) and the dock served as the primary port for commercial ships of the Mosquito Fleet until the wharfs at Port Williams and Dungeness were built. Children arrived by boat to a small schoolhouse that also sat on the property until it was moved to a nearby hillside due to winter tidal flooding. In 1910, Hans Bugge replaced the previous home on the site with a 6-bedroom Georgian style home which stood well into the time period of the next owners, Battelle.  

In 1966, Battelle Northwest purchased the property and developed it into a marine research laboratory and continues to operate at the site today as Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, operated by Battelle for the Department of Energy.

The S’Klallam village sxʷčkʷíyəŋ occupied this same site for approximately 600 years, until the late 1880s. The town of Sequim takes its name from this village, which translates to “place for going to shoot,” reflecting the abundant opportunities for hunting. There are a handful of cedar posts on the beach today that remain from that era (far left in the pictures but too small to see). They can be easily spotted from a standup paddleboard or kayak as you paddle along the shoreline.

Cover of Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe's history of the village at Washington Harbor

The most comprehensive and easily accessible telling of the Tribe’s history here was prepared by Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe’s Cultural Resources Specialist David Brownell and is available as an ebook pdf from the Tribal library.   

Lost cities of the Strait: Port Crescent

Okay, the use of the term "cities" might be a bit of a stretch in this case, but I've found myself increasingly fascinated by a few forgotten coastal settlements along the Strait of Juan de Fuca.  Most of these were, I would guess, associated with logging in an era when moving logs overland was an impossibility.  Some were quite small, but others were impressively large communities...that have now more or less completely disappeared.  Port Crescent, for example, was an impressively large coastal community on Crescent Bay along the Strait of Juan de Fuca, supposedly envisioned originally as a big ship port.

Here is a view of part of town from 1905, looking to the east from a point on the current road leading down to Crescent Beach:

1905 view of Port Crescent.  Photo from the Burt Kellogg collection, North Olympic Library System

and here is the view from the same point today:

8 June 2020 photo looking east towards Crescent Bay

In the far field of both photos is Tongue Point, site of Salt Creek County Park, and where Fort Hayden was built during WWII.  Because of trees and shrubs it is sort of hard to make out the shoreline in the near field of the modern view.  Here is a modern view of approximately where the large hotel and wharf would have been:

Photo taken 8 June 2020 approximately here, approximately where the large wharf and hotel sat in the 1905 photo above.  

Barely a trace of the extensive turn-of-the-century development associated with this town is visible.