Fort Hayden, now Salt Creek County Park

Salt Creek County Park in Clallam County is an absolute gem - a beautiful and heavily-used park where a lush second growth forest merges with a spectacular coast.  It also, like some of our other park gems scattered around the eastern Strait of Juan de Fuca (i.e. Fort Worden, Fort Ebey, Fort Casey and Fort Flagler), was once part of the Puget Sound Harbor Defense System, the initial three fort core of which is described here.  What was known at the time as Fort Hayden was a relatively late addition to the system, constructed at the onset of WWII, and decommissioned at the end of the war.  Walking around the grounds now speaks to the changes and transformations of uses of the coast that this blog is all about.

One of two 16-inch guns firing at Camp Hayden, probably in the early 1940's.  Photo from the Burt Kellogg collection, hosted by the North Olympic Library System.

The same perspective, photo collected 27 May 2020.  

The Transformation of Urban Shorelines: Port Angeles

Most shorelines of urban coastal communities in Washington have been radically transformed by fill, and Port Angeles is no different.  Downtown Port Angeles was originally built essentially right on the beach:

View looking west from the bluffs just to the east of downtown Port Angeles.  Unknown date, but presumably prior to 1914.  Photo from the Burt Kellogg Collection, available through the North Olympic Library System. 

The contemporary view highlights the changes to the shoreline, most of which were brought about by a massive 1914 filling project:

Contemporary view of downtown Port Angeles, looking west from the bluff just to the east of downtown.  The Red Lion hotel is prominent in the foreground, and Ediz Hook is visible in far field.  Photo collected 4 March 2014 by Ian Miller. 

John Wayne Marina / Pitship Point in Sequim Bay

This is part one of two historical photos I’ll be sharing, taken near what is now John Wayne Marina in Sequim Bay. This area can be referred to by several names. The sandspit where the marina was eventually built was named Pitship Point by the Charles Wilkes Expedition in 1841. The marsh on the left is called Pitship Pocket Estuary and underwent a much-needed restoration in 2010 by the North Olympic Salmon Coalition. The project replaced a small culvert with a bridge that reconnected the marsh to the bay, improving habitat for out-migrating salmon as they make their way to the ocean.

The historical photos I’ve found of this area refer to nearby Johnson Creek, which runs adjacent to the marina. The photo below is another from the Bert Kellogg collection at the North Olympic Library System and is titled “Log Dump on Johnson Creek.” The date is unknown, but cabins were built in 1910 (the focus of our upcoming part two) that would have been seen here if the photo had been taken after that time period.

Then - Johnson Creek Log Dump (date unknown - via Bert Kellogg Collection at North Olympic Library System) / Now - Pitship Pocket Estuary and John Wayne Marina (2019)

This was one of several locations on Sequim Bay used to collect and sort logs before they were rafted and towed to a local mill.  But as with all history here, the story begins with the S’Klallam tribe. Carbon dating of artifacts found at Pitship Point date back at least 2000 years.

Newspaper ad March 1970

In the 20^th century and continuing through today, Pitship Point has been used for recreation, with a boat ramp and cabins and camping available just across the road. In the early 1970s, Sequim Bay Marina, Inc. (actor John Wayne) developed Pitship Point, attempting to turn it into a marina. In 1975, Wayne gifted the land to the county so that the current marina could be built. The marina was completed in 1985 and the Wayne family still owns adjacent property, including John Wayne’s Waterfront Resort. Washington’s Department of Ecology Shoreline Photo website shows an aerial view of what Pitship Point looked like in 1977, before work started on the current marina.

The bluff as a landmark on the opposite side of Sequim Bay

I kept the Now picture a little wider so you could see more of the marsh and all of the marina. The marsh to the left is an easy landmark but what caught my eye in the historical photo is the bluff on the far right. The bluff is located on the opposite side of the bay. The marina and trees get in the way of us seeing it in the modern photo above, so I took a second picture from the marina. On the far left is Paradise Cove, and the arrows point to what I believe is the same slide area on the bluff in both photos. If it weren’t for all the vegetation, the arc of the bluff would be a little easier to discern, but you can still make it out.

Look for a part two from this same area in another blog post coming soon.

Puget Sound Clam Gardens

Last year during a SUP touring clinic I hosted with R2AK paddler Karl Kruger on Orcas Island, Karl sparked my interest in finding evidence of indigenous Salish culture along Puget Sound.  

With 150 plus years of logging and development, I didn't think that was possible but Karl quickly pointed out a few signs just down the street from his Deer Harbor marina.  

He described the purpose of marker trees, which are trees shaped by native people to show territory, direction or point to a forage or fishing spot.  Once I saw what a marker tree looked like, I realized I've seen them around the Sound.  

Hooked on finding marker trees,  my research led me to other signs of indigenous culture including clam beds. Clam beds were designed to create, just that, a clam foraging spot along a beach or part of a beach not otherwise know for clamming. 

The beds design included building a rock wall or line or rocks which would collect sand inside thus creating the bed.  

Here's a few examples and links to check out.. 

BC Clam Garden

The Clam Garden Network

NW Coast Archaeology - Clam Gardens

Modern or recreated clam gardens:

Swinomish Clam Garden

NPR Story on Modern Clam Gardens

Posted by Rob Casey

Something a bit different...restoration on the shoreline

The fundamental idea behind this blog was to provide modern perspectives of Washington's historic shorelines, and highlight the transformations that Washington's shorelines have gone through over the last 100 to 150 years.  I've decided to do something a bit different with this post though, and focus it on radical change to Washington's shoreline associated with a restoration.  I've been incredibly fortunate to be part of the community of scientists focused on studying the effects associated with the removal of the Elwha River dams.  In particular I've been interested in the coastal influences, both physical and ecological.  Through that work, I've revisited spots on the Elwha River delta repeatedly for well over a decade, including this spot right here. Back in 2011, the view from this spot looked like this:

Photo taken looking up the beach during low tide, on 2 August 2011.  Photo originally published at https://coastnerd.blogspot.com/2018/06/elwha-update.html 

Just a handful of years later, after dam removal transformed the coastal landscape near the river mouth, the view from that exact spot is radically different:

June 2018 photo looking south from what used to be the beach.  Photo originally published at https://coastnerd.blogspot.com/2018/06/elwha-update.html 

Ediz Hook

No trip down the memory lane of Washington's shorelines would be complete without a stop in to consider Ediz Hook.  Ediz Hook is a roughly 3.5 mile long "recurved" spit extending into the Central Strait of Juan de Fuca, the embayment of which forms Port Angeles Harbor.  Ediz Hook hosts a pulp and paper mill, a road, a boat ramp, the Puget Sound Pilot's boat station, and a large US Coast Guard facility.  Not surprisingly, Ediz Hook has been heavily modified over time, and looks considerably different today than it did at the turn of the 20th century.  This view of Ediz Hook (taken from somewhere near modern Crown Park), for example, dates to 1884:

1884 view of Ediz Hook.  Photo is part of the Washington Rural Heritage collection, accessed via the North Olympic Library System.

And here is the modern view from the same perspective:

Photo collected by Ian Miller 19 February 2014

Prominent in the modern view is the pulp and paper mill, first built around 1920.  Harder to see from this vantage are the many other modifications that have turned Ediz Hook from the natural sand spit it was in 1884 into something that many take to be a man-made harbor defense works.  Here is the view down on the beach near the mill, for example:

10 February 2017 photo taken looking west from a point just to the east of the mill shown in the photo above.  Photo collected by Ian Miller

showing the large rock, placed to protect Ediz Hook from erosion, that is now a prominent feature of the Ediz Hook shoreline.

Port Williams...Bustling Port Now County Park

Port Williams is located on the Olympic Peninsula near Sequim, between Sequim Bay and New Dungeness Lighthouse. It’s currently a Clallam County park with a boat ramp and wonderful beach combing opportunities. But in the late 1800s and into the early 1900s, this spot served as a port for Mosquito Fleet steamers that were providing supplies and transportation to the new settlers of the Sequim prairie. The wharf was built in 1890 and included a hotel, restaurant, post office, store and dance hall. The Port Williams townsite was abandoned in 1922.

Port Williams - Then (early 1900s) and Now (2020)

The historic image is courtesy of the Museum and Arts Center in Sequim-Dungeness. The exact date is unknown, but the ship, the Alice Gertrude, was built in 1898 and ended its run in Clallam Bay, running aground during a snowstorm in 1907.

It’s interesting to note the dark stripe that runs horizontally, halfway up the bluff in both photos. This is the result of glacio-lacustrine deposits, sediment that settled in glacial meltwater during the Vashon glaciation period. More than 14,000 years ago, the Cordilleran glacial ice sheet, measuring at least 3000 feet deep, covered most of Western Washington. As it advanced and retreated, the glacier carved much of Puget Sound into the landforms and waterways we see today. It also left us with timeless features to match up in then and now photographs of our ever-eroding bluffs.

A better look at the different sediment layers in the bluff, with bonus pigeon guillemots!

There are many other historic photographs of Port Williams to enjoy in the Bert Kellogg Collection, available for viewing on the Washington Rural Heritage digital archive website or in person at the Port Angeles branch of the North Olympic Library System.